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The City:
At the end of the Adriatic, at the
easternmost point of Italy, in the
heart of the Mediterranean, is
Otranto. Closer to the east than the
west, it is at the centre of the
symmetries and asymmetries that
“mare nostrum” (our sea) has
designed over the millennia. Its
urban fabric demonstrates traces,
lemmas, stratifications, glosses of
history dating back a thousand years
where, all of Europe meets the
meridian civilisation. The city, a
setting of infinite charm, allows
absent visits only to hurried
tourists and to those who are
attracted by the market stalls. The
others, without a doubt will
experience the charm that will stay
with them forever. Many places offer
visions of lost worlds: the caves of
Cervo from the Neolithic times, the
megaliths that from Capo d’Otranto
come forwards inside the Salento
peninsula, the remains of the
civilisation of Messapi, of the
Iapigi, of the Haethei, references
to the mysterious Pelasgians. The
name is of Greek derivation, formed
by the words water and mountain. The
cathedral lies majestically on the
line in which the sun links the East
and the West, marking the
metaphysical heart. Inside, a mosaic
floor unravels around a gigantic
“arbor vitae”, swarming with lay and
religious symbols. Otranto tells
many stories, alert of the visitor:
the crusades and the Normans, the
megaliths and the Messapi, the
Greeks, the Romans, and mysterious
people of the Mediterranean.
Surprise and enchantment, wounds and
attracts, Otranto leaves nobody
indifferent.
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The
Story:
Greek colony, in 281 B C., is
subjected to Rome, from its port
the Roman militia depart at the
time of the East, the notoriety
of the city has become such that
Aurelio Cassiodorus defines it
as “Pull of Italy”. With the
division of the Roman Empire,
Constantinople insets his
officials and the role of
Otranto becomes emergent to the
point where, during the 4th
Century, Japigia, Messapia,
Salento and Calabria take the
denomination commune of Terra
d’Otranto. They follow the
invasions of the Alani, the
Ostrogoths, the Vandals, the
Goths, the Alemans, the Lombards,
but the city always remains
faithful to Constantinople. In
1040 the people of Otranto
welcome the Normans, from 1061
to 1068 the Byzantines return.
On the 15th August 1227,
Frederic II sails towards
Otranto in order to establish
himself in the East. In 1440
Alfonso I enters Otranto,
however Ferdinand of Aragon is
against the Venetians, therefore
in 1449 the Venetian fleet
attacks Otranto which suffers
from severe damages. In 1463
Giorgio Castriota Skanderberg
gives his consent to |
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Ferdinand I of Aragon to
overthrow the Angevins, he is in
war against Florence and Venice,
the Serenissima urges the
intervention of the Turks who
invade the city.
So in 1480 Mohammed II instructs
from the siege that Achmet
Pascia takes the city, gathers
800 men and enforces them to
make the choice between
embracing the Muslim faith or
death, the 800 choose death.
Ferdinand of Aragon frees the
city in 1481. From 1496 to 1504
Venice detains Otranto. New
invasions from the Turks occur
in 1535, 1537, 1614 and 1644
however the city is always
victorious. In 1671 the Naval
Squad of the Knights of Malta
arrives in Otranto. From 1672 to
1715 Otranto becomes the
residence of the Consuls of
Ragusa and Venice. Napoleon
Bonaparte assigns the “feud of
Otranto” to Giuseppe Fouche. |
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The
Monuments:
Whether you arrive by sea,
or look from above, Otranto
strikes straightaway the
military architecture of the
Renaissance. The mighty
ramparts enclose the
historic centre like the
arms of a man. At the time
during the Roman Empire was
divided into two, this city
became the outpost of
Constantinople. The Turks
conquered in 1480, in 1481
the Argons freed the city
and a true and proper
architecture revolution
occurred: the tall and
narrow towers have been
lowered and widened, in the
introduced ditches known as
“scarpa” and “controscarpa”.
Recently added to the public
gardens is the arc of
Portaterra, the Alfonsina
Tower which still threatens
us with embrasures and slits.
Few steps are needed to meet
“the Lady of Otranto”, the
Cathedral of the XI century.
Thanks to the formal rigour
typical of Apulian Romantic
Gothic style, it manages to
give a spacious form to the
most incorporeal |
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element that exists: light.
Inside, our gaze will be
completely and inexorably
absorbed by the immense,
splendid and mysterious
mosaic floor that
encompasses the sacredness
of Christianity as well as
the same concept of the
Sacred: the large Arbor
Vitae the lion with
four-bodies, Alexander the
Great, Noah, the flood, the
mermaid, King Arthur. In the
right nave a chapel
preserves the bones of the
Martyrs decapitated in 1480
by the Turks. A crypt
surprises us with a
labyrinth of columns and
capitals, which are always
different. In an area even
more inferior develops the
Valley of Memories: the
latter has numerous
“arcosolio”, surrounded by
crypts of the Italia-Greek
monks. The Piazza of the
Castle, showing its moats,
the castle dominates the
entire space, its entrance
is surmounted by the coats
of arms of Alfonso of Aragon,
created by Ciro Ciri and the
genius of Italian military
architecture: Francesco of
Giorgio Martini. The aspect
of this manor is austere and
elegant, solar and rounded
as it appears far from the
fantastic and Gothic
description given O Walpole
in his writing ‘The Castle
of Otranto’. The tangible
imprint of the Eastern
Church in Otranto is the
byzantine Shrine of St.
Peter, built during the
V-VIII centuries and then
reconstructed in the XII
century. A Greek cross with
central dome is entirely
frescoed. It appears to rise
from the ground almost
seeming to heighten and
levitate. Rising solitary
and imposing, slightly south
of the City, the remains of
the ancient abbey of St.
Nicola of Casulis (VIII –
XII century); basilica
monastery in which operated
copyists and writers such as
Nettario of Casole. The
coastal towers and the
fortified farms are a new
story, another chapter which
enhances the coast and
countryside of splendid
architecture. |
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